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OFF SEASON | WHAT MAKES A BIG WAVE | SAFETY
No one doubts that Hawaii is surfer's “Mecca” for the reasons explained above. Surf climatology for the north shore shows the average heights during peak season (November-February) around 16 feet (5 m) top to bottom on the shoreward side of the wave at the highest point of cresting. But during peak season, there are on average about 20 days with enormous heights of 36-50 feet face (11-15 m) at the highest peaks on the outer reefs, while Waimea Bay holds roughly 25-35 feet (8-11 m) on the face. What are the weather and ocean ingredients that make these extreme waves?
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